On Trail of Tiger @ Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

Looks like 2010 is our travel year, post Tawang, Shillong, Kaziranga, Jaipur Bandhavgarh was on radar for some time.

Bandhavgarh National Park is spread over the vindhya hills in Madhya Pradesh. It consists of a core area of 105 sq km and a buffer area of approximately 400 sq km of topography varies between steep ridges, undulating, forest and open meadows.

The density of the Tiger population at Bandhavgarh is the highest known in India.It has around 64 tigers as per our nutritionist guide Anand of Treehouse Hideaway and it certainly does seem that way. Most of the land is hilly, rocky terrain which keeps the tigers relatively in a high concentration and increases a chance of sighting. This is also White Tiger country. These have been found in the old state of Rewa for many years. The last known was captured by Maharajah Martand Singh in 1951. This White Tiger, Mohan, is now stuffed and on display in the palace of the Maharajahs of Rewa.

Prior to becoming a National park, the forest around Bandhavgarh had long been maintained as a Shikargah, or game preserve, of the Maharajahs of Rewa. Hunting was carried out by the Maharajahs and their guests - otherwise the wildlife was relatively well-protected.
It was considered a good omen for a Maharajah of Rewa to shoot 109 Tigers. His highness Maharajah Venkat Raman Singh shot 111 Tigers by 1914.

We left pune on 5th May by Darbhanga exp for katni station. Katni is a tiny little village/town. Theres a pedestrian over bridge to be crossed to reach the exit gate, travel light, the trolley bags won’t be of any use here.

TreehouseHideaway arranged a pickup at Katni Station. We traveled for 2hrs n checked into our treehouse lodge. I will say one of the best place to stay at bandhavgarh, very nice specious treehouses, modern amenities, 24 hr power backup air conditioned rooms(u need it in scorching summer), tasty food as per your taste, very helpful n polite staff, since it was a jungle trip we chose TreehouseHideaway for stay n were lucky to get peepal-Banyan Tree house no 5; which is built next to a giant Peepal n Banyan tree. Treehouse is a 25 acres plot with only 5 tree houses n a nicely built restaurant, drinking hole on a huge mahua tree. Then there is a water hole where one can get to see many birds as well if u are lucky leopards wild boars as well sambar deers. Our luck was limited to only Jackals, wildCats, Junglefowls Langoors n many Grey Hornbills visiting trees near treehouse.

The park is very well managed and maintained. Having seen few other India's parks, I feel most of them can do well to learn from MP parks.

There are 2 safaris per day Morning 5.30am to 10.30pm and 3.30pm to 6.45pm. The jeeps line up at the gate and the park opens at sharp 5.30am. Each jeep gets a guide from the forest department, in addition to the driver from resort who serves as another guide. All jeeps are similarly equipped.

The elephants go out at around 4 am and scour the forest to sight one or more tiger. Once it is found, the camp is informed and the jeeps are given numbers and queued up to see the tiger on elephant back. Unfortunately elephant rides were closed for this summer n we missed this experience of seeing Tiger from as close as 50 meters.Being a small park, it is well managed and the tiger sighting is well controlled and does not reduce to a chaotic scramble. Care is taken to see that the animals are not disturbed.

The forest is quite dense and not very scenic. But the concentration of tigers is quite impressive. In all of the national parks we visited, tourists would ask "did you see the tiger?" here they ask you, "How many have you seen today?" We met a family who saw 9 different tigers in a single day from the jeep.

Visiting in the summer months ensures a better sighting, since water is scarce. However, there is also a tourist rush and the weather is unbelievably hot but its worth an experience to see this majestic animal in its natural habitat.

Park was very clean, practically spotless. There are little makeshift toilets inside the park as well. No water is available there, though. Guides are well informed and very polite. The tiger show was very well managed, with minimum inconvenience to the tigers.Excitement on seeing even a tail of sleeping tiger is so amazing; people of all age are curious like kids n ready to wait patiently for this big cat to get up sit, clean its face with paws, n if u are lucky get to see it walking as well hunting. There were 2 times we were almost close to see tiger hunt sambar, chitals.
But like an royal family member; tiger unless prey is in range of 50-80 meters do not waste its efforts, no wonder it has a success ratio of 1 out of every 20/30 attempts. Then its prey has its own way of communicating presence of tiger way monkeys n deers give calls one knows there is a tiger nearby n be alert.

On last day we had some luck where a jackal hunted a chital; it made it run a lot in nearby water hole, in end deer got so tired that even an animal half its size was able to hold it by its mouth. deer just allowed predator to do as it pleased, in end there was no resistance or attempt to flee. Wild wild world it is their for sure but hey those predators are far better than we greedy and selfish humans who are destroying other species for pleasure land or some bucks. Overall it was an amazing experience in wilderness. Few mores to go in next months.

Nice souvenir shop just outside the park if u want to carry few more memories of this beautiful place n its residents.

Some of negative things; since May is holiday season, every park visit time there were 30-40 jeeps full of tourists and every
one running like mad to see big cats. May be noise n this madness is what big cats rarely came any close to watering holes. They preferred
taking naps at safe distance. Not sure whats the best time to visit park so one gets to enjoy sighting as well peace as madness of crowds n pushing of vehicles at times was too much.

Then there was this young Sardarji who threw empty plastic bottle in Rajdhara watering hole; now come on how could we spoil an pristine clean jungle like this? It was jeep attendant who went n removed that bottle immediately as there was no animal in sight in good distance.
If we are Indians; we have to Litter our surrounding? Has that became our birth right now a days?


Gear : Nikon D90, Tokina 11-16mm/2.8, Sigma 150-500/5-6.3, Manfrott Monopod

Sightings :::::
Tigers(2M,4F), werent lucky though to see 2F mothers with their 3month n 7month old cubs,
Langoors,
Barking deer,
Spotted Deer,
Sambar Deer,
Jungle Cat
Golden Jackal
Jackal hunting chital,
Wild Boars,
Tree Pie,
Wag Tail,
Rufus backed Shrike,
Rose Ringed Parakeets,
Peacocks,
Serpentine Eagle,
Changeable Hawk Eagle,
Robin,
Racket tail drongo,
Cukoo Shrike
Golden backed woodpecker,
Grey Hornbill,
Red vented bulbul,
Jungle fowl,
Lesser Adjutant crane,
Egyptian Vulture,
Indian Pitta,
Black-winged Kite,
Red Vented Bulbul,
Koot,
Water Hen,
Red head Vulture,
Indian Vulture Gyps,
Rare jungle fowl






















































































































































Indian Roller
Serpentine Eagle

Mahua Tree restaurant

Watering hole Treehouse