Zunka Bhakri......: May 2011

Location, Accommodation and Food
Stayed at Tiger Motel Resort in Moharli area of Tadoba-Kolsa-Andhari National Park, The accommodation and food were very average, though hotel has plenty of unused green land but overall not properly managed n built. Even as a Maharashtrian I would honestly advice people to stay away from this state as far as tourism goes; you rarely get any value for money even after paying through your nose, general attitude is pathetic even in service/hospitality industry.
We stayed there for 3N/4D, 4 safaris we took enabled us to see the whole park, not just the areas most likely to produce a tiger sighting. It also gave plenty of time for bird watching and looking for the less spectacular but equally interesting mammals. Also having same guide and driver meant we were able to build a rapport. By the end of the 4th safari we had become friends.

Sightings All safaris started in an open jeep, though wanted to do one tiger viewing from elephant back but that has to wait for next Tiger safari. Tiger remained elusive for most of safaris, we heard many langoor as well sambar,spotted dear calls but failed to get any sighting of tiger as well tigress with 3 month old 3 cubs. On final safari when we had almost finished our safari n started back for main gate, lady luck smiled on us and we had a chance to see a full grown tiger for good 7-10 mins sitting on mud road(salt-lick) at just 10 feet's distance. Apart from tiger we had many prominent sightings
Leopard - Had a chance to see male leopard tying to kill monkeys on a nearby tree to waterhole as well saw it crossing park road as kill attempt failed.
Sloth Bear - Bear at waterhole and then crossing the road
Wild Dogs/Dhol - Pack of 7-8 dhols Deer - Spotted, Sambar, Barashinga, Barking Nilgai, Gaur, Mongoose, Hare. My bird count was over 60+ species! The highlight was the tiger spotting above!

Tiger Safari : A Typical Day We had a 04:45 alarm call!! quickly got dressed, everyone made sure they have ample drinking water with them, Met for a cup of tea and headed to the park ready for 06:00 entrance. We would then drive for around 4 hours before returning to camp for breakfast, this about 10 minutes. After lunch at 13:00; Afternoon safari started at 14:30 and lasted until dusk/18.30. We had 4 safaris in a row but each one different and hugely enjoyed. For those staying a shorter time it was more a case of 'tiger fever'. We were able to relax more. Weather Summer Heat! Temperatures around 40C but overall best time to spott tiger due to scarcity of water in jungle so good chances to see this majestic animal around active water holes!!!

Conclusion Overall yet another exciting visit to our National Parks, even if you dont get to see tiger or any other predator just enjoy jungle, smell of flowers-trees, noisy cicadas, chirping of birds, quietness and frustration with explosion of excitement after any sighting is worth every trip.
Nature never disappoints for sure.

Photos
Leopard As decided over dinner previous night, we left as early as possible for morning safari on 2nd day, after entry at main gate, we had not driven even couple of hours we saw one of NationalGeographic vehicle on main road, it seems an Leopard had just crossed road and gone to nearby bamboo thicket. Just few mts away NatGeos other 2 vehicles with camera crew and other with audio technica microphone and DAT recorder was parked few mts away form a waterhole. They signalled us they can get leopard low pitch growls; so though of giving it a try and wait along with them. Afterall leopard sightings are becoming rare n rare now a days in jungles. There was a group of monkeys at waterhole, one of monkey from top of a tree was giving Leopard calls; but still as they were sure of it sitting behind bamboos they were enjoying themselves. All of a sudden monkeys ran for their life and we saw this leopard chasing one of monkey but it seems monkeys were quick this morning n Leopard failed to hunt any of it. Leopard sure was frustrated; it sat at waterhole for a moment and then decided to move to other potential area. It was an adult male, such an beautiful and graceful animal.

Sloath Bear After lunch n small break we left for first days afternoon safari; after entry at main gate we drove inside park; we had crossed 3-4 kms and saw two other safari jeeps looking at left side, seems they spotted a Sloath Bear at waterhole few mts away, we too stopped n tried to spot it, after few mins there was some movement at waterhole n we were excited to have seen a black patch; after having water n its short splash in water sloath bear decided to cross road n dash off to other side of forest.All the jeeps moved in one direction so not to scare off bear n make possible viewing for every one to see this nocturanl creature cross road in broad day light. Bear took 2-3 mins, it crossed road and disappeared in bamboo thickets.

Wild Dogs/Dhol First days afternoon safari we waited at a waterhole for 1.30hrs expecting an Tigress n its 3 cubs; but Tigress didnt came to water till 6pm, as park closes at 6.30pm n we were 20-30 mins drive from main gate we decided to leave n try during next days safari. We had crossed almost half distance n in a thicket one of Wild Dog aka Dhol was spotted, all we could see was its tail n some body part, so though we were still half distance away we thought of giving it a try, in 2-3 mins pack of dogs came out as they wanted to cross road n move to other side. Beautiful sighting of this pack with 6-7 dogs, observing them seems like they had strict protocols or hierarchy; Alfa male appeared first then may be second in command male/female, juveniles followed n in end again one of grownup male/female. # Pack of Wild Dogs is considered as most ferocious hunters; big pack can bring down even full grown tiger if any confrontation happens, generally tigers avoid Dhols packs We had luck with them for 5 mins; watched them n then left for Main gate n made it just in time around 6.28pm.

Tiger Only tiger spotted during this trip; at an amazing close distance, not more than 10 feet's away from vehicle. Had this sighting out of sheer luck, it was spotted around 6.10pm when we were speeding to reach main gate before 6.30pm. Best part was got to experience tigers salt lick as well soil lick for mineral contents. Some of mammals do it during summer, that too not very frequently so we not were lucky to only sight this majestic beauty but see its soil licking from a close distnance for few minutes. Post soil lick, it urinated on trees,bushes to demarkate its territory and walked towards an alarm giving spotted dear in thickets.

Sambar stag Sambar stag took its own sweet time to cross road, it was alert atsame time curiously looking at our vehicle. May be it was saying 'Welcome to our Home, enjoy it responsibly'